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A Long Look Back

April 28, 2020

Thinking about my friend Kenton today…


Over 50 years ago (yes, that’s a half a century), I was a member of the Rising Sons Surf Club in Sylmar, California. Although we were a motley looking bunch, we represented some of the very best surfers of the 1960s. We were bold back then and we did in fact think we owned the Pacific Coast from Mexico north to Santa Cruz.

Every now and then, I look back over those five decades and a certain feeling overtakes me. It isn’t nostalgia but rather a combination of pride and comfort. It is a feeling that escapes words and one that soothes the soul in its most fatigued moments. I even wrote a short book about our experiences back then on the waters of the Pacific Ocean: Fifty Years Ago – A Surfing Trilogy. The book tells of the fun experiences but what I left out were the not…

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  1. Memories sooth my mind and keeps me happy. Love your words.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. I loved reading this vivid and heartwarming memory of your friend!

    Liked by 1 person

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